fashion

startwo@thestar.com.my

By OLIVIA LEE

The latest collections from three designer brands are driven by feminine, edgy elements.

Feminity rules for designers Giorgio Armani and Marc Jacobs this season. The former introduces mini skirts with underlying shorts while the latter has created dresses that reflect the pretty mood of Spring/Summer.

Accessories from Mulberry, meanwhile, take on an edgier feel with lots of teen angst-inspired details.

One thing's for sure, nothing is boring where these three brands are concerned.

Giorgio Armani starts the ball rolling with head-turning dresses that are expertly constructed. Dresses are rich in colour and made of fabrics such as satin, taffeta, chiffon and silk.

The geometric formula of the skirt creates movement and emphasises the three-dimensional form of the body.

To underline the prevalence of compact shapes, shorts are occasionally worn under svelte tunics.

In fact, everything is short and ends above the knee, even the evening dress. And, instead of completing the ensemble with stilettos, the designer decides that flat shoes give the best finishing touch.

Linear jackets with overstitched trim explore cool graphic design, combining sophisticated neutral, grey, blue, green, iris and low-voltage red.

There is a pursuit of new elements, including tunics, little wrap dresses, shorts gathered to imitate skirts, and single shoulder shirts with three layers displaying checkerboard motifs.

For men, Giorgio Armani's message is of constant elegance.

Shades of grey present a virtuoso display of patterns, from shirts in masculine weaves to ties that define the body or at times seem to blend into the background.

A succession of stripes identify the suits that extend downwards to the shoes. The long sunny days of summer are evoked by shades of Havana brown lit up by gleams of light and the shimmer of silk on linen.

Suits with a city slant appear super-light in pale, luminous colours. They are teamed with loose pieces like the shirt that recalls a small bomber jacket or the unlined jacket in distressed treated leather.

Denim plays a vital role; lightweight and treated, it brings an unexpected dimension to casual suits, which sometimes include a waistcoat.

The sky-blue tones of the shirts, with micro-geometric designs that range from stripes to azulejo tile patterns, emphasise the impact of plain white suits.

On the other hand, Marc Jacobs' Spring/Summer 2010 collection is softer, more feminine and romantic with plenty of ruffles, frills and tassles. Some outfits even evoke the I Dream of Jeannie influence.

For his casual garb, Marc Jacobs gives it a girly look with three-quarter flowy pants. He has also re-introduced the fashion faux pas fanny pack and made it work.

"If last season was a trip back in time to the 80s, this is a trip to the theatre, ballet and opera," says Jacobs, summing up his collection.

To accessorise your wardrobe, Mulberry's latest collection draws inspiration from Sofia Coppola's Virgin Suicides and the photography of Tim Walkers to bring you a season of faded beauty, distortion and the naivety of adolescence.

It is a dreamy take on schoolgirl crushes and fairground iconography sharpened with teen angst. This season, Mulberry has six new key groups: Alexa (feminine and girlish), Drew (vintage equestrian), Hayden (featuring iconic brass hardware details), Melanie (for corporate styles), Tamara (classic iconic logo bags) and Beatrice (luxurious slouchy bags).

For him, the Mulberry boy will see plenty of new styles including the Felix east-west messenger, the Brynmore tote and the Balthazar hobo. The Felix east-west messenger has a full flap and full exterior back slide pocket with quintessential Mulberry styling.

Meanwhile, the Brynmore tote is a great addition to the Brynmore family, featured in natural vegetable tanned leather and in reverse croc print. The Balthazar hobo comes in luxurious heavy grain calfskin in black and oak, with brass and nickel hardware.